Category: photography

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  • The Donner Tunnels: Hiking, Railroad History & Street Art

    Map of the Donner Tunnel Hike

    The problem with being alone after about 50 years of living with your best friend, is that it’s easy to get bored especially when you have few friends and relatives where you live. Today was one of those days. It’s too frigging hot (100+ F) for outdoor activities, and I did not feel like working out and hanging out at the club. Or walking aimlessly around a shopping mall (have me committed if I ever start doing that). This would be a good day to either be underground or someplace else cooler than anywhere in the Sacramento Valley. What to do. I had been planning to do the Donner Tunnel hike sometime this summer – higher altitude, nice cool tunnels, interesting engineering and history, and less than a two hour drive up I-80. A good choice for a boring, incredibly hot day.

    A bit of history – the Donner Tunnels (15 of them I think) were built in the late 1860’s by 1000’s of Chinese laborers, as part of the Transcontinental Railroad. They had to drill and blast through solid granite, build massive retaining walls, and probably lay the track as well. Aside from the rock tunnels, the railroad also constructed lengthy snow sheds to protect the tracks from deep snowfall and avalanches. Some of these are at least a mile long, and connect to the tunnels – these were originally wood, and were eventually replaced in the 1900’s by massive concrete structures. Pretty amazing engineering and construction techniques.

    Once the rail line was abandoned (1993), the rails were torn out, leaving a very nice place to hike – it has lots of shade for hot days, nice views of the surrounding mountains when you are not in a tunnel/shed, and a nice gravel path that stretches for miles. You do not need a map – no chance of getting lost unless you really want to. The seemingly endless and enormous concrete shed walls became a magnet for graffiti artists, so the walls now have layers of colorful and imaginative murals, as well as the usual scrawls you see in cities. It’s a fun hike – not too strenuous, good place to bring the kids and dogs. And a great place for all kinds of photography. My kind of place.

    I had a nice easy drive up I-80, and the instructions were pretty accurate for where to park – there were quite a few cars already there, and the way to the tunnels was obvious. I loaded up my pack, stuck my GoPro clip on my shoulder strap, grabbed my headlamp, and headed off to parts unknown.

    View from the parking lot to Tunnel #6

    The first tunnel you enter is actually the longest one – Tunnel #6. It is also the darkest since it goes through solid granite. There is a shallow stream running through it to add a little challenge to the journey. This was the only place where you really need a flashlight or head lamp (preferred). The path in this tunnel has a lot of rocks, not just gravel, and it would be a painful and wet fall if you trip on one. There is not much to see on the walls (it’s really dark), so the safest choice would be to look in front of you most of the way. It’s weird that as you get closer to the end of the tunnel, it’s more difficult to pick out what’s in front of you – the light is blinding. It was a bit creepy, but not too difficult.

    After Tunnel #6, it seems like the rest of the rock tunnels are short and dry, and have a snow sheds attached. This is where the graffiti really starts, more so at the end of the tunnels/sheds, but quite a bit through the lengths of the sheds as well. The concrete structures have openings for light and air through the length of each shed, so you do not need flashlights unless you are walking though the attached rock tunnel, and those are short. The openings provided enough light for the graffiti artists, so there is a lot of interesting works along the way.

    This hike is extremely popular – I imagine it is very crowded on the weekends. Lots of families and groups. There were also a few graffiti contributors while I was there. Some families bring a bag of spray paint cans, and let the kids have at it. And then there was one woman with 3 kids, who was also spraying away while I was taking a water break. I of course critiqued her art work, which was just a blob of red paint. She finally gave up on whatever she was trying to create, covered it over in white paint as a canvas, and intended to start over. I applauded her effort. I’ll photograph it the next time I’m there. She’ll be famous then. It’s a shame that there are not enough open walls for the novices to play on – they wind up covering over some really interesting murals, that talented artists created. Somebody should have created a book of the best murals. Too late now.

    Here is a bunch of photo’s of the graffiti and the long snow shed.

    And a couple of more from the outside

    I decided to call it quits at the entrance to the fourth shed (where the struggling graffiti artist was plying her trade) – I was not tired, I just wanted to get back home at a reasonable hour. I also wanted to try a different way of anchoring the GoPro for the return trip. On the way out, I had the GoPro on a clip attached to my shoulder strap – no matter how much I tried to adjust it, the camera was alway pointing to on side. Heading back, I put my Sony in the backpack to get it out of the way, and just held the GoPro in front of me (while holding my hiking stick in the other hand. The results were much better. The video below starts in a shed, and transitions into the very dark Tunnel #6. I have a few other videos I’ll attach later on, once I do some editing. The first is the walk back through dark Tunnel #6

    The next video shows all the street art in part of the long snow shed, and also how you can go from sunny to very dark…a bit creepy.

    This was a fun trip, quite different from some of the other strange adventures I’ve had this summer. I’m going to try and get a small group together to do the full hike, which is only about 5 miles or so round trip. This time, I’ll remember to change batteries in the headlamp. And bring some spares. You can never be too cautious. 

    If you do plan to try this hike out, here are a few important tips:

    1 – Wear comfortable walking shoes – the trail is gravel the entire way. I guess if you are used to hiking in flip-flops, you’ll be OK. It’s also wet in Tunnel #6.
    2 – Bring a flashlight or headlamp – it’s really dark in that first tunnel, and dim in a few other spots.
    3 – If you really have to add your own art or scrawls, try not to do it on any of the large murals.
    4 – And most important of all – there are no restrooms in the parking lot, or along the 2.9 mile length of the trial. It would also be inappropriate to do it in a tunnel or snow shed. If you need to go, go before you get there.

  • Caving, Part III: Many steps and a light show

    Lake Shasta Caverns

    I was starting to think that the old saying of “Once you’ve seen xxxxx, you’ve seen them all” applied to cave tours, but this one had a few twists and turns (pun intended) which sets it apart. First of all, the Lake Shasta Cavern is…on a lake. On the side without a road. So you have to take a boat to get there. And the entry is on the side of a mountain. So you have to take a bus up a very narrow road to get to the entrance. And the entrance is at the lower level of a fairly large cavern so you spend a lot of time going up steep stairs, cut in very narrow passages. Don’t go there if you are claustrophobic.

    Ok, seriously, this is a major tourist attraction in the Lake Shasta recreation area, and the operation is geared towards much larger groups than the two local caverns I have posted about. The grounds on the I-5 side of the lake includes a nice visitors center, a large play area for kids (with a very large gold panning thing….they all seem to have this), and a long, steep path down to the lakeshore where the boats leave. 

    The boats are nice, large covered pontoon crafts, which ferry you across to a landing on the other side – they run every half hour since they stagger groups, unlike the smaller operations.

    They also have an old WWII landing craft that is used to ferry equipment and fuel across to the cavern. They bought it in a government auction in the 50’s, and it turns out to be a survivor from the Normandy landings. Pretty cool. I did not see any bullet holes.

    Photo of WW2 Landing Craft on Lake Shasta

    Once you get to the other side, they pile everyone into a bus, to get up the very narrow, steep, winding road (with sheer drop-offs) to the mini-visitor center up top (with bathrooms!). From there, a guide gathers the group up, and in you go.

    This was not a natural entrance – the real entrance is a few hundred feet up the hill. To make life easier for tourists, they cut a new passage into the lower level. Thank you for that.

    This is a very large cave, and the tour covers a lot of ground, All of it going up a series of stairs cut into the floor. All the passages and stopping points have either concrete or hard packed surfaces, which makes walking easy. They also have handrails throughout the touring areas. Best of all, there was only one place where you had to watch for a low hanging stalactite – I did not have to duck anywhere in the cave. Thanks again for that. 

    Photo in Lake Shasta Cavern
    Nice path with hand-rail lights

    Most..make that…all of the features are the same as in the other caves – just more of them, and some of the rooms were fair sized. They also just completed an upgrade to the lighting in the cave, with LED’s in most of the railings, so you could see where you are stepping. There are a lot of steps – one steep passage had 80+ steps. And the steps were cut for small feet – it’s always a challenge for my size 13 gunboats.

    So many steps

    The tour was fast paced, and I did not take quite that many photographs until the end. There’s that saying again – how many photographs for the same types of features do I need. Until the last room, which was spectacular. I should note that the guide was excellent – there were stops at the five rooms we visited, where she discussed the features, and a lot about the history of the caverns. Very interesting. And there were even benches to rest on in. A few places – a nice feature after walking up 3 or 4 stories of steep steps. Here are a couple of shots from the different rooms that we toured:

    The high-lite of the tour was this last room – a light show, set to music!!! It was actually quite good, but one couple brought two young kids along, and the boy screamed through the entire presentation. Kind of ruined the moment. But it was still pretty cool – here’s a short clip. This is a family oriented vacation stop, so they have to handle adults and small children. There was also a woman with a very small service dog….which she had to hold through the entire tour. Whatever.  

    A surprising light show

    After the light show, we were told to head out the last passage, which led out to yet another series of small steps, going back down to the starting point. I had tired knees at that point. And once the boat dropped us off on the other side, it was yet another climb back up to the visitor center and the car. Sigh. Fortunately, you can either take the direct route – stairs, or use the switchback path. I chose the latter.

    Walk to the light!

    I did not need to go to the gym when I got home later in the afternoon (3+ hour drive) – I got enough of a workout on the cave stairmaster. While this one is a lot more “touristy”, it was definitely worthwhile for me, even with the long drive – the cave was beautiful, and it was definitely a unique experience with the boat ride and multi-level cavern. It was also the first time I’ve ventured this far North in California, and found a bunch of other places I’d like to visit.

    I now have two more left in my underground California tour – one near Angels Camp, and the other close by in Murphy’s. I could theoretically do another overnight trip and get them both, but since it’s not too far from home, I’ll do two separate trips. After that, I’m through with caves – my summer bucket list keeps growing, and I’d want to hit some of these before I leave for Alaska. I looked at a lot of literature about the Mt. Lassen National Park, and may add that to my list, probably in early August.

    If you are interested in visiting the cavern, here’s their website: https://www.lakeshastacaverns.com/