Tag: adventure

  • The Donner Tunnels: Hiking, Railroad History & Street Art

    Map of the Donner Tunnel Hike

    The problem with being alone after about 50 years of living with your best friend, is that it’s easy to get bored especially when you have few friends and relatives where you live. Today was one of those days. It’s too frigging hot (100+ F) for outdoor activities, and I did not feel like working out and hanging out at the club. Or walking aimlessly around a shopping mall (have me committed if I ever start doing that). This would be a good day to either be underground or someplace else cooler than anywhere in the Sacramento Valley. What to do. I had been planning to do the Donner Tunnel hike sometime this summer – higher altitude, nice cool tunnels, interesting engineering and history, and less than a two hour drive up I-80. A good choice for a boring, incredibly hot day.

    A bit of history – the Donner Tunnels (15 of them I think) were built in the late 1860’s by 1000’s of Chinese laborers, as part of the Transcontinental Railroad. They had to drill and blast through solid granite, build massive retaining walls, and probably lay the track as well. Aside from the rock tunnels, the railroad also constructed lengthy snow sheds to protect the tracks from deep snowfall and avalanches. Some of these are at least a mile long, and connect to the tunnels – these were originally wood, and were eventually replaced in the 1900’s by massive concrete structures. Pretty amazing engineering and construction techniques.

    Once the rail line was abandoned (1993), the rails were torn out, leaving a very nice place to hike – it has lots of shade for hot days, nice views of the surrounding mountains when you are not in a tunnel/shed, and a nice gravel path that stretches for miles. You do not need a map – no chance of getting lost unless you really want to. The seemingly endless and enormous concrete shed walls became a magnet for graffiti artists, so the walls now have layers of colorful and imaginative murals, as well as the usual scrawls you see in cities. It’s a fun hike – not too strenuous, good place to bring the kids and dogs. And a great place for all kinds of photography. My kind of place.

    I had a nice easy drive up I-80, and the instructions were pretty accurate for where to park – there were quite a few cars already there, and the way to the tunnels was obvious. I loaded up my pack, stuck my GoPro clip on my shoulder strap, grabbed my headlamp, and headed off to parts unknown.

    View from the parking lot to Tunnel #6

    The first tunnel you enter is actually the longest one – Tunnel #6. It is also the darkest since it goes through solid granite. There is a shallow stream running through it to add a little challenge to the journey. This was the only place where you really need a flashlight or head lamp (preferred). The path in this tunnel has a lot of rocks, not just gravel, and it would be a painful and wet fall if you trip on one. There is not much to see on the walls (it’s really dark), so the safest choice would be to look in front of you most of the way. It’s weird that as you get closer to the end of the tunnel, it’s more difficult to pick out what’s in front of you – the light is blinding. It was a bit creepy, but not too difficult.

    After Tunnel #6, it seems like the rest of the rock tunnels are short and dry, and have a snow sheds attached. This is where the graffiti really starts, more so at the end of the tunnels/sheds, but quite a bit through the lengths of the sheds as well. The concrete structures have openings for light and air through the length of each shed, so you do not need flashlights unless you are walking though the attached rock tunnel, and those are short. The openings provided enough light for the graffiti artists, so there is a lot of interesting works along the way.

    This hike is extremely popular – I imagine it is very crowded on the weekends. Lots of families and groups. There were also a few graffiti contributors while I was there. Some families bring a bag of spray paint cans, and let the kids have at it. And then there was one woman with 3 kids, who was also spraying away while I was taking a water break. I of course critiqued her art work, which was just a blob of red paint. She finally gave up on whatever she was trying to create, covered it over in white paint as a canvas, and intended to start over. I applauded her effort. I’ll photograph it the next time I’m there. She’ll be famous then. It’s a shame that there are not enough open walls for the novices to play on – they wind up covering over some really interesting murals, that talented artists created. Somebody should have created a book of the best murals. Too late now.

    Here is a bunch of photo’s of the graffiti and the long snow shed.

    And a couple of more from the outside

    I decided to call it quits at the entrance to the fourth shed (where the struggling graffiti artist was plying her trade) – I was not tired, I just wanted to get back home at a reasonable hour. I also wanted to try a different way of anchoring the GoPro for the return trip. On the way out, I had the GoPro on a clip attached to my shoulder strap – no matter how much I tried to adjust it, the camera was alway pointing to on side. Heading back, I put my Sony in the backpack to get it out of the way, and just held the GoPro in front of me (while holding my hiking stick in the other hand. The results were much better. The video below starts in a shed, and transitions into the very dark Tunnel #6. I have a few other videos I’ll attach later on, once I do some editing. The first is the walk back through dark Tunnel #6

    The next video shows all the street art in part of the long snow shed, and also how you can go from sunny to very dark…a bit creepy.

    This was a fun trip, quite different from some of the other strange adventures I’ve had this summer. I’m going to try and get a small group together to do the full hike, which is only about 5 miles or so round trip. This time, I’ll remember to change batteries in the headlamp. And bring some spares. You can never be too cautious. 

    If you do plan to try this hike out, here are a few important tips:

    1 – Wear comfortable walking shoes – the trail is gravel the entire way. I guess if you are used to hiking in flip-flops, you’ll be OK. It’s also wet in Tunnel #6.
    2 – Bring a flashlight or headlamp – it’s really dark in that first tunnel, and dim in a few other spots.
    3 – If you really have to add your own art or scrawls, try not to do it on any of the large murals.
    4 – And most important of all – there are no restrooms in the parking lot, or along the 2.9 mile length of the trial. It would also be inappropriate to do it in a tunnel or snow shed. If you need to go, go before you get there.

  • Caving Part IV – Spiraling down

    Photo of Moaning Cavern in Angels Camp california

    OK, after three caverns, there really is nothing new in terms of features to see. The last one (Lake Shasta) covered them all, and had a light show to boot. Hard to beat that, so why do anymore of these? Well, this one has something unique – a 170 step spiral staircase, built from parts of a famous WWI/WWII battleship, and the second largest cavern in the state. That and the fact that I want to complete the top 5 caverns in Northern California…maybe there’s some kind of award for that. Probably not. Maybe I’ll make my own t-shirt, like I did for half dome. Or not.

    The Moaning Cavern is located between Murphy’s and  Angels Camp in Calaveras County, if you know the area. It’s about a 2 hour drive from home. For this trip, I found a partner in crime, only after promising to visit a winery afterwards for lunch and vino. Some folks are easy to bribe.

    Anxious spelunkers

    This is another touristy tour – they offer two varieties. The Spiral Tour just covers the main cavern, reached via the staircase, and nothing more once you reach the bottom. The Adventure tour is more like real spelunking, through a well established route. No lighting or paths – all crawling and climbing. It sounds interesting, but not for my 73 year old body. Been there, done that, don’t need to prove anything to myself or anyone else. Now get off my lawn. So yes, we are doing the former, not the latter.

    Cave Map – very large cave, very little of which was seen on tour

    Much like all the other caverns, gold miners found it, and once they realized it was limestone and there ain’t no gold in them thar rocks, some of them decided they could make a buck giving mine tours. For this one, it has an entry which leads down to a really, really big empty space – you can fit the Statue of Liberty in there with room to spare. The only way down was to rappel from a ledge. Fun for some, but not conducive for large groups of non-climbers. I’ve rappelled that far in my rock climbing day’s…I’m not interested anymore. At any rate, an owner came up with a bright idea – the US Navy was modernizing some of the WW1 battleships which had these big “birdcage” towers for the rear (or main) mast, which had an observation/control room on top. These cylindrical towers were the perfect size to go from bottom to top of this enormous room. Just add a spiral staircase inside the cylinder and you have an easy way to get in and out the cavern (10 stories worth of stairs). Brilliant. They did also offer visitors the opportunity to rappel down for a while….they have a photo of Tom Hanks doing it. Glad he survived.

    A side note here – this particular battleship mast came from a famous ship – the USS Maryland. She was one of the survivors of the Pearl Harbor attack in 1941, where 6 out of 8 battleships from the Pacific Fleet were sunk. The Maryland was inboard of the USS Oklahoma which capsized – it was relatively lightly damaged by bombs.  

    Model of the USS Maryland – you can see the rear tower mast

    So, on to the cave. It’s vacation time in the West, so we had a fairly large tour group, with a lot of kids. We managed to get to the head of the crowd, so did not have to deal with kid-jams on the long staircase down. You first have a few stories worth of steep steps in narrow passages – these lead to a landing at the head of the spiral stairs. An amazing view when you see how vast this cavern is. Once we were all gathered, I turned on the GoPro, and headed down the stairs. I forgot to mention – this time around, I carried my phone, my Sony DSLR and I wore a chest mount harness for my GoPro camera. I looked like a total geek. Well, more than I usually do.

    This was a very strange experience – the tower is right next to one wall, so you are getting up close and personal views of the cave formations as you spiral down. The stairs are well spaced and not too small, so it was an easy “hike” down to the bottom. Once you get to the bottom, the view from the bottom up was pretty amazing.

    The tour does not go any further – the guide describes all the features for a half hour, takes photos of each group which you can buy (no thanks), and then does a demonstration of what you are able to see with just a candle. Basically nothing. We did the same thing in one of the other caverns. There were a number of interesting features but quite frankly, the highlight is tower. The guide did point out some of the holes that the “Adventure Tour” crawls through. That pretty much confirmed my decision to pass on it. Here’s a few feature shots:

    So after the candle light display, the guide told us to head back up and out. Not wanting to wait behind all the kids, I got to the stairs first, turned on the GoPro again and headed up. It was not that tough a climb – I need to let my cardiologist know that I did what amounts to a stress test without any problems. The photos below are two of the narrow, steep stairs going from the platform back up to the entrance. This is not a natural passage – it was blasted out to avoid the straight drop from the top.

    And for the fun of it, here is my video of the climb up from the bottom (two of them actually). It’s a bit long but interesting to watch.

    The long and winding road (going up)

    Since the tour was relatively short, and we were surrounded by wineries, my friend an I found a nice one to visit (Hatcher Winery), sampled some wines, and headed into Murphy’s for a nice lunch before heading back home. Overall, a very pleasant day. The cave was worth visiting to experience the spiral staircase, and to see the huge cavern room which had some interesting features. And we did get some good exercise going up and down.

    Since I have such an incredible wealth of knowledge on tourist caving now, here are my does and don’ts when going on one of these cavern tours:

    1 – Wear comfortable walking shoes, preferably light hiking half-boots. Most of the tours involve climbing steep, narrow stairs, and even the well paved trails can be wet and slippery. Sandals, flip-flops and Crocs may lead to slipping, and possibly wet and muddy feet.
    2 – Check the Website to find out what the cavern temperature and humidity is and dress appropriately. That can change depending on the season. Some of the caves are quite chilly and damp. Shorts seem to be OK except for the ones with narrow passages – you could wind up with dirty legs/dirty pants. Be prepared.
    3 – If you bring a camera (other than a phone), make sure it’s tethered to your body with a strap. And try to avoid leaning over railing with your phone to take pictures. One of the caverns had a case filled with camera’s, phones, GoPro’s and all kinds of stuff that visitors drop, and they only clean these places out once in a while. If you drop it, you will not get it back. Carrying a heavy DSLR is also problematic in caves with narrow passages or low overhangs – it’s difficult protecting your camera and your body at the same time.
    4 – Most of the tours do a lights-out experience somewhere along the way – it can be frightening for adults, and terrifying for little kids. Make sure they are ready for it and you are holding on to them.
    5 – And most important of all, especially for old folks like me, hit the bathroom just before you start the tour!. There’s no place “to go” once you are down there.

    My next trip will be the Mercer Cavern, just outside of Murphy’s and more like California Cavern. Since I’ll be in Murphy’s, I can also check out the Big Tree State Park…it’s above ground and has groves of giant sequoia trees.  A  nice change. And unfortunately, while doing some Google searches on other things to do in California, I discovered yet another cave to visit. Sigh. Once you get started with caves, it’s hard to stop. Sort of like snacking from a large bag of M&M’s. This latest cavern is in the Mojave Desert, so visiting this summer is not an option. The tour requires a .75 mile hike along a narrow trail from the visitor center to the entry, and the cave does have some low and very narrow passages, but the photos they have on the Website are beautiful, so I have added this one to my list. A real adventure in the fall, sometime between my Alaska and Antarctica trips. I have to consider whether I really need any more adventures in between two major ones. I got time to think about it. 

    If you are interested in visiting this cavern, here is the Website: https://moaningcaverns.com/