Tag: adventure

  • Whales can fly! A trip to Moss Landing

    I can fly!!!

    I have to include a little of the sad stuff here, since it relates directly to the loss of my wife. April 27th was the first year mark for her passing and as expected, I was an emotional wreck on the days leading up to that day. I had been stressing out for some time on what to do – have a celebration of life party, try and ignore what happened, or do shots of vodka all day. None of those worked for me. Eventually, I came up with a good alternative to an all day drinking binge – go somewhere that we both loved. Since I had just been to the coast, I was reminded of something we did all the time – whale watching tours, out of Moss Landing. Jan loved being out on the ocean, and watching Humpbacks was something we did in Monterrey Bay and Hawaii. So, I booked an afternoon cruise, planning to stay at a really nice hotel close by afterwards.

    My plans changed the day I was set to head out for the afternoon tour – there was a storm way off the coast, and Blue Ocean (tour company) had to cancel the cruise due to high waves in the bay. Not a problem – I rescheduled for the following morning since I would be staying close by at a hotel that evening. I drove out to Moss Landing anyway to look for otters, and just hang out on the beach for a while. It was really windy and cold and would have been awful out in the bay.

    Windy day at Moss Landing beach
    Sea Otter….always cute

    My plans for that evening were pretty simple – dinner at the hotel bar, and a martini toast for my wife. I asked the bartender for my usual dry vodka martini, and to make a lightly dirty martini, my wife’s favorite, which I’d keep to the side. When I explained why, she had everyone at the bar toast to my wife’s memory. Nice. Made me cry a bit. I wound up talking to a lot of folks at the bar, and to the bartender for a few hours – turned into a nice celebration of sorts.

    Mine is on the right

    OK – enough sad stuff. I had to checkout and hit the road early for the cruise – it was only a 20 minute drive from the hotel to Moss Landing, but you never know with traffic on the Pacific Coast Highway. It was a bit foggy at first, but the sun was already out and the skies cleared when I reached the Moss Landing Harbor, so it looked like it would be a beautiful day. I like going with this outfit – a nice boat, with small groups, and a great naturalist and crew. I headed straight for the bow when I boarded, and found a good spot where I could brace against the railing – I was using the, heavy 500mm lens, so this was going to be a good experiment to see how it handles (by hand) on a boat. A family moved to bow in front of me, but they were all short….perfect. 

    There always seems to be something interesting to see in the harbor – sealions are always there, and sometime otters are hanging around. Here’s a pile of sealions

    Moss Landing is in a great spot for whale cruises – the deep Monterrey Canyon actually starts at the mouth of the harbor, so there are usually whales right outside of the harbor mouth. And true to form, we had spouts as soon as we left the harbor. Not only spouts, but active whales – tail slapping and breaching. Seeing a whale elevate almost completely out of the water is an amazing sight – the whales weight up to 45 or 50 tons, and they can get almost completely airborne with a couple of swings of their big tails (flukes). Getting shots of a breaching whale requires a great deal of luck – you have to be focusing near that spot when they begin to surface, have really good autofocus, and a fast shutter speed. And steady hands. I’ve been lucky in the past in Maui, but never really got anything worth showing here in Monterrey. My luck finally changed – and the new lens helped a lot. I missed out on a couple of breaches, one right next to the boat (I sort of got that) but the lighting was off.

    Big splash about to happen

    And then one breached too close, and I was not pointing in the right direction

    Too close….

    But then fortune smiled upon me, and I was pointing in the right place when a big one went airborne:

    Houston, we have liftoff
    Airborne!!!!
    Approaching landing (splashdown)

    The third one in sequence would have been perfect except for missing a tip of the fluke. Darn. But I was thrilled with the other two. We spotted a large group of dolphins and followed them for a while, and humpbacks were spouting and diving all over the place. After 3 hours or so, we finally headed back to the harbor. My hand was cramping by then from holding the heavy camera. 

    Heading down
    Tail Slap
    Risso’s Dolphins – they have blunt faces.

    I kind of like this long distance shot of a breaching whale – nice colors.

    This turned into a really nice trip for me – it’s not like I ran away from the awful memory of that day a year ago. My wife was on my mind the entire time. She is always a part of me and always with me in my mind and heart. But I was able to enjoy a few hours where I was focused on something so beautiful and amazing, that we both enjoyed together. 

  • Gray Whales in Baja Mexico

    Gray Whale Spy Hopping

    My wife and I have always been fascinated with whales, starting with our first trip to Hawaii, and then living close to Monterrey Bay once we moved to California. We spent many pleasant mornings or afternoons on whale watching tours from Moss Landing, Santa Cruz or Monterrey harbor, year round, since Humpbacks, Gray and even Blue whales pass thru or stay to feed in the bay.

    We had always been interested in visiting the breeding lagoons for the Gray Whales in Baja – the videos of the whales interacting with people (except for kissing the whales) were amazing. There are a number of touring companies which offer trips to Baja, which included National Geographic/Lindblad so the choice ws simple for me – stick with NG. 

    This trip started on the East side (Sea of Cortez) of Baja, in the city of Loreto. From there, we were bussed over to the Pacific side to San Carlos in Magdalene Bay where we boarded the ship. Once again, as a single, I was in steerage, at the waterline. Not so bad – great cabin, with easy access to the mud room at the stern, where you board the zodiacs. Nice view from my port holes too.

    The first two days were spent chasing whales, cruising around the bay in local fishing boats (pangas), and a visit to a local fishing village. The whale chasing was fun and interesting, but the whales were just not as friendly as I was hoping for. No photos of whales leaning into the boats, and I never got to use my new GoPro to capture underwater shots. Darn. But I did get some pop-up head shots, and it was fun riding along in the bay with the local fishermen. Unlike Humpback Whale breaches, Gray Whale head shots look a lot like a marine buoy. Oh well, maybe next time.

    Panga (small boat), filled with passengers from our trip

    For the remainder of the trip. we followed the coast line around back to the Sea of Cortez, stopping to chase Humpback whales or anything else of interest – that’s the cool thing with National Geographic. The schedule is always flexible depending on the weather and wildlife. 

    One big mistake I made prior to this trip, was my selection of camera gear. I was focused more on underwater photography for the Gray whales and snorkeling. I had been planning on purchasing a new, longer zoom lens later in the summer, but did not think I would need it on this trip. A big mistake. As we continued south along the Baja coast, we saw quite a few active Humpback whales, some with calves, breaching. There were quite a few passengers with 400, 500 and 600MM long lenses, who captured some excellent photos. All I had was a 300MM – not long enough. And as always with whale photography, you never know when something exciting will happen. I was on the wrong side of the ship when a really large whale breached right along side the ship. There were passengers on their balconies, that suddenly had a whale a few feet away..airborne. Amazing. At least I got to see it. 

    And at least I did not have whatever they had for lunch.

    Urp! (not really, they were just looking at fish passing by below)

    The background for the Humpback photo’s would have been great with a longer lens. Live and learn.

    If only I had that new long lens

    Our next stop once we turned the “corner”, and headed into the Sea of Cortez, was a small village which had switched from fishing to eco-tourism – this was a real success story for rebuilding the fish populations in the area. There is also a large sea lion colony there, which has become a major tourist attraction, where you can swim alongside the colony and interact with the sea lions. They are used to people, and seem to enjoy showing off. I was all set for capturing a close up, which I had missed in the Galápagos Islands. We loaded up the Zodiac boats and pulled up to the colony – amazing number of barking sea lions, many of them swimming around the boats. Sort of like pulling up to a colony of Golden Retrievers. I got myself organized, held onto my camera setup, and stepped off the boat..right on top of a sea lion. We were both surprised. We stared at each other for a minute, and before I could get the camera up, it swam away. Yet another lost opportunity. So once again, no close ups. Crap. 

    Passing by Cabo
    Just showing off

    The rest of the trip included some hiking – nothing spectacular – we spent some time with the National Geographic photographer finding things to shoot along a beach hike, and did a nice strenuous hike up a gully for a view across to the Pacific. Along the way, a group of locals were working their way down the trail, with big sacks of mollusks across their shoulders. We walked over to their village afterwards (a nice open air bar), and found out that they do this to get the bait for their lobster and crab traps. Unbelievable amount of work! The trail on the other side is extremely steep. 

    Me….top of the hike. Nice ocean view. Villagers came up that side
    La Paz Fiesta – great dance troup

    And there were some incredible view of the amazing Baja coast – imposing desert and mountain ranges.

    We eventually disembarked where we started out, in Loreto, and had to hang around for most of the day at a nice hotel on the waterfront, until we could go to the airport. This is a very small city, with an equally small airport – there are very few flights in and out. Once again, I made it home very late due to very long lags between flights – this time, I had to wander around LAX for about 5 hours. Overall, a fun trip, but disappointing in terms of photography. I did fall in love with Baja – the landscape, mountainous desert hitting the sea, the culture and people were incredible. I already have a return trip scheduled.