Tag: Cave-tours

  • The Last Cave: Mercer Caverns

    Zoltar says “I see many stairs and great ice cream in your future”

    Even though I am free from the medical anchor which has kept me more or less close to home this summer, I’m still working on the local bucket list, and all I had was one last cavern to visit – Mercer Caverns. This one is close to the last one I toured (Moaning Caverns), so I got to drive through Murphy’s again. I like that town. Mercer Caverns pretty much has the same history as all the others along the Sierra foothills – it was discovered by a gold miner (Walter Mercer in this case) in the late 1800’s, who noticed a breeze coming out of the ground, dug a hole and found the cavern. He explored it with a geologist, who told him it was all limestone, so forget about finding gold. But as with the other caverns, Mr. Mercer decided to turn his worthless mining claim (which he bought for $1) into a money making tourist attraction. He died young after a bad fall in the cave, but his family and future owners continued to explore and upgrade the tourist route through the years. And much like some of the other caverns, the tour follows a series of steep stairs and narrow passages which lead to small rooms, each with interesting features which the tour guide points out. Kind of sounds repetitive, because it is. So I’ll try to keep this post relatively short for a change.

    I was by myself once again (sigh), so motored down to Murphy’s, arriving a few minutes after 11AM. This place does not take reservations – they are pretty casual about when the tours start, apparently based on when enough people show up. Today, they ran the tour at 11:30 as a few small groups showed up after I got there. I was planning to use the GoPro again to capture some video, and had the chest harness and camera setup, but was told that video cameras were not allowed. Huh? They mentioned that on their Website, but I assumed they were referring to the large cameras that serious videographers use, not a very small GoPro firmly attached to my body. Plus every phone and my, what they called a still camera, take high resolution videos. I asked why, and was told “that’s the rules”. No other explanation. Fine….I tossed the harness and camera back in the car. A very dumb rule.

    So, I got to the head of the line, and after a quick intro by the tour guide, down we went. This was the actual entry point that Mercer hacked out – you can see the hole from the first anchor he used to rope down the hole, next to the plaque.

    Photo of the entrance to the Mercer Cavern in Murphys CA

    The stairs leading down were quite steep and narrow, and not as well lit as in some of the other caves, but with solid railings to hold on to. There were also a few tight spots where taller people have to duck to avoid smashing your head. There were four or five landings on the tour where we stopped and gathered to view some of the classic features you see most caves – stalactites and stalagmites, columns, various flow features. Each of these rooms were fairly small, but were well lit to highlite the features.

     Because the rooms and passages were so narrow, the owners placed plexiglass protectors along the cave walls in a number of places, to keep visitors from touching anything. That made it difficult for photography, but I managed to get some good shots, mostly with my phone. I hardly used the Sony camera swinging around my neck (I really need to buy a harness for that thing).

    The very last stop had the one unique feature for this cavern – some incredibly delicate and beautiful aragonite crystals, which won a major award at the Paris Worlds Fair in 1900.

    After we reached that landing we headed back up, stopping for the traditional candle and lights-out display, and then continued climbing back up the 17 stories of stairs to the top. Phew.

    I’m totally caved out now – this was a nice tour – great tour guide, nice people in the shop (that’s where Zoltan resides). But after four other tours, the aragonite crystals were the only feature that stood out for me. And I was a bit annoyed with the slightly rude response I received by one of the staff about why I could not use the GoPro camera (“cause it’s the rules”). Whatever. It was an enjoyable outing.

    The Website for Mercer Caverns has quite a bit of detail on the history and geology of the caverns.

    http://mercercaverns.net/index.html

    I hung around, waiting for my heart beat to climb down to normal after the climb out, and then headed home. But, I just had this absolutely desperate need for ice cream. Fortunately, there are two shops on Main Street in Murphy’s, which I had to drive through, so I picked one…it was a vry good choice.

    No more caves for a while. There are caves in other parts of the state – Lava tubes around Mt Lassen and Lava Beds National Park, and a few around Sequoia National Park. I may eventually get to those. The only one I’m interested in now is Mitchell Caverns, in the Mojave Desert.

  • Caving Part IV – Spiraling down

    Photo of Moaning Cavern in Angels Camp california

    OK, after three caverns, there really is nothing new in terms of features to see. The last one (Lake Shasta) covered them all, and had a light show to boot. Hard to beat that, so why do anymore of these? Well, this one has something unique – a 170 step spiral staircase, built from parts of a famous WWI/WWII battleship, and the second largest cavern in the state. That and the fact that I want to complete the top 5 caverns in Northern California…maybe there’s some kind of award for that. Probably not. Maybe I’ll make my own t-shirt, like I did for half dome. Or not.

    The Moaning Cavern is located between Murphy’s and  Angels Camp in Calaveras County, if you know the area. It’s about a 2 hour drive from home. For this trip, I found a partner in crime, only after promising to visit a winery afterwards for lunch and vino. Some folks are easy to bribe.

    Anxious spelunkers

    This is another touristy tour – they offer two varieties. The Spiral Tour just covers the main cavern, reached via the staircase, and nothing more once you reach the bottom. The Adventure tour is more like real spelunking, through a well established route. No lighting or paths – all crawling and climbing. It sounds interesting, but not for my 73 year old body. Been there, done that, don’t need to prove anything to myself or anyone else. Now get off my lawn. So yes, we are doing the former, not the latter.

    Cave Map – very large cave, very little of which was seen on tour

    Much like all the other caverns, gold miners found it, and once they realized it was limestone and there ain’t no gold in them thar rocks, some of them decided they could make a buck giving mine tours. For this one, it has an entry which leads down to a really, really big empty space – you can fit the Statue of Liberty in there with room to spare. The only way down was to rappel from a ledge. Fun for some, but not conducive for large groups of non-climbers. I’ve rappelled that far in my rock climbing day’s…I’m not interested anymore. At any rate, an owner came up with a bright idea – the US Navy was modernizing some of the WW1 battleships which had these big “birdcage” towers for the rear (or main) mast, which had an observation/control room on top. These cylindrical towers were the perfect size to go from bottom to top of this enormous room. Just add a spiral staircase inside the cylinder and you have an easy way to get in and out the cavern (10 stories worth of stairs). Brilliant. They did also offer visitors the opportunity to rappel down for a while….they have a photo of Tom Hanks doing it. Glad he survived.

    A side note here – this particular battleship mast came from a famous ship – the USS Maryland. She was one of the survivors of the Pearl Harbor attack in 1941, where 6 out of 8 battleships from the Pacific Fleet were sunk. The Maryland was inboard of the USS Oklahoma which capsized – it was relatively lightly damaged by bombs.  

    Model of the USS Maryland – you can see the rear tower mast

    So, on to the cave. It’s vacation time in the West, so we had a fairly large tour group, with a lot of kids. We managed to get to the head of the crowd, so did not have to deal with kid-jams on the long staircase down. You first have a few stories worth of steep steps in narrow passages – these lead to a landing at the head of the spiral stairs. An amazing view when you see how vast this cavern is. Once we were all gathered, I turned on the GoPro, and headed down the stairs. I forgot to mention – this time around, I carried my phone, my Sony DSLR and I wore a chest mount harness for my GoPro camera. I looked like a total geek. Well, more than I usually do.

    This was a very strange experience – the tower is right next to one wall, so you are getting up close and personal views of the cave formations as you spiral down. The stairs are well spaced and not too small, so it was an easy “hike” down to the bottom. Once you get to the bottom, the view from the bottom up was pretty amazing.

    The tour does not go any further – the guide describes all the features for a half hour, takes photos of each group which you can buy (no thanks), and then does a demonstration of what you are able to see with just a candle. Basically nothing. We did the same thing in one of the other caverns. There were a number of interesting features but quite frankly, the highlight is tower. The guide did point out some of the holes that the “Adventure Tour” crawls through. That pretty much confirmed my decision to pass on it. Here’s a few feature shots:

    So after the candle light display, the guide told us to head back up and out. Not wanting to wait behind all the kids, I got to the stairs first, turned on the GoPro again and headed up. It was not that tough a climb – I need to let my cardiologist know that I did what amounts to a stress test without any problems. The photos below are two of the narrow, steep stairs going from the platform back up to the entrance. This is not a natural passage – it was blasted out to avoid the straight drop from the top.

    And for the fun of it, here is my video of the climb up from the bottom (two of them actually). It’s a bit long but interesting to watch.

    The long and winding road (going up)

    Since the tour was relatively short, and we were surrounded by wineries, my friend an I found a nice one to visit (Hatcher Winery), sampled some wines, and headed into Murphy’s for a nice lunch before heading back home. Overall, a very pleasant day. The cave was worth visiting to experience the spiral staircase, and to see the huge cavern room which had some interesting features. And we did get some good exercise going up and down.

    Since I have such an incredible wealth of knowledge on tourist caving now, here are my does and don’ts when going on one of these cavern tours:

    1 – Wear comfortable walking shoes, preferably light hiking half-boots. Most of the tours involve climbing steep, narrow stairs, and even the well paved trails can be wet and slippery. Sandals, flip-flops and Crocs may lead to slipping, and possibly wet and muddy feet.
    2 – Check the Website to find out what the cavern temperature and humidity is and dress appropriately. That can change depending on the season. Some of the caves are quite chilly and damp. Shorts seem to be OK except for the ones with narrow passages – you could wind up with dirty legs/dirty pants. Be prepared.
    3 – If you bring a camera (other than a phone), make sure it’s tethered to your body with a strap. And try to avoid leaning over railing with your phone to take pictures. One of the caverns had a case filled with camera’s, phones, GoPro’s and all kinds of stuff that visitors drop, and they only clean these places out once in a while. If you drop it, you will not get it back. Carrying a heavy DSLR is also problematic in caves with narrow passages or low overhangs – it’s difficult protecting your camera and your body at the same time.
    4 – Most of the tours do a lights-out experience somewhere along the way – it can be frightening for adults, and terrifying for little kids. Make sure they are ready for it and you are holding on to them.
    5 – And most important of all, especially for old folks like me, hit the bathroom just before you start the tour!. There’s no place “to go” once you are down there.

    My next trip will be the Mercer Cavern, just outside of Murphy’s and more like California Cavern. Since I’ll be in Murphy’s, I can also check out the Big Tree State Park…it’s above ground and has groves of giant sequoia trees.  A  nice change. And unfortunately, while doing some Google searches on other things to do in California, I discovered yet another cave to visit. Sigh. Once you get started with caves, it’s hard to stop. Sort of like snacking from a large bag of M&M’s. This latest cavern is in the Mojave Desert, so visiting this summer is not an option. The tour requires a .75 mile hike along a narrow trail from the visitor center to the entry, and the cave does have some low and very narrow passages, but the photos they have on the Website are beautiful, so I have added this one to my list. A real adventure in the fall, sometime between my Alaska and Antarctica trips. I have to consider whether I really need any more adventures in between two major ones. I got time to think about it. 

    If you are interested in visiting this cavern, here is the Website: https://moaningcaverns.com/